SHIMANO Special grease for pawl-type Freehub bodies 50 g,White

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This makes the whole system lighter since you’re essentially removing the weight of a spring and a ratchet. The simplest way for a manufacturer to achieve this is to increase the number of teeth on the drive ring. There’s also a different lock ring, incompatible with Shimano’s, used to secure the cassette on the freehub. However, certain Shimano wheels and hubs came with 10-speed-only freehubs, which were not backwards-compatible.

However, the teeth will need to be smaller, as will the pawls, so some brands use pawls with multiple teeth to spread the loads, or they offset the pawls in a multi-phase configuration so that not all pawls engage simultaneously, thereby reducing the angle of engagement. In some situations, a smaller angle of engagement is beneficial for faster take-up once you start to pedal. You can often get away with a bare post in a carbon frame these days, but I recommend a carbon paste. The only time I think I ever bought a specialty bike lube was back in the days of microlube ports on Manitou forks.This kind of setup usually weeps slightly but it considerably more weather-resistant than the usual arrangement, provided the SFG has the right kind of corrosion inhibitors in it. Various specific thin greases or thick oils are touted, not too big an outlay as you need very little, but I wouldn't want to shell out on something that's regular lube decanted into a small posh container. I also replace the freehub grease with Krytox, and use locking compound on the axle caps when I assemble the hub. I use it for special occasions and on things like repair stand handles that get screwed in n out with load all the time.

The best thing an individual can do is to familiarize themselves with the products on their own bikes first, take a look at the manufacturer’s recommendations, and talk to a reputable bike mechanic. probably meant to justify a more expensive hub with an inner spacer in and a drive ring with a few more points. My favorite everyday chain lube if I could only pick one would be Rock’n’Roll Gold lube, great for road and MTB, wet and dry, it’s pretty clean, and tests very fast for a cheap everyday product. A heavy grease is similarly beneficial on contacting surfaces of pressed-in bearings; the difference here is that in press fits, it is a corrosion barrier as well as a lubrication method to limit creaking sounds as the two surfaces slide against one another under load or flex.

Although some people might say it's too heavy, I used Park Tools PolyLube 1000 grease and it worked fine.